BOM and Build Guide
Expand for BOM
||10uF 25v Electrolytic Capacitor
||C2, C6, C23, C24, C26
||C3, C4, C5, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21
||D5, D6, D7, D8, D9, D10
||68R Ferrite Bead
||IC2, IC3, IC4, IC5, IC6, IC8
||J1 - J8, J10 - J14
||2x5 (10-pin) male header
||R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R30, R31, R32, R48, R51
||R33, R34, R35, R36, R37, R38, R39, R40, R41
||R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R42, R43, R44, R45, R46, R47, R49, R50
||6-pin stackable header
||8-pin stackable header
||single row, pin header
||T18 Davies Knob
(1) IC1 must be CD4053 as 74HC4053 and others may not be compatible with the supply voltage.
(2) VR1 is a Linear 100kOhm pot, unlike the typical 10kOhm pot used in most DIY projects.
(3) D1 & D2 can be replaced with similar diodes, for example: 1N4002, 1N4004, 1N5189, etc.
(4) If you wish to use ribbon cable rather than stackable headers, you may. It is more difficult to prepare the wire than it is to use sleek headers.
All build photos present, text tutorial being added soon.
Expand for Build Guide Part 1
Start with (PCB1/3). Populate shortest parts first.
All values are listed on PCB for ease of locating.
499R, 1K, 100K resistors
High Speed Diodes, Protection Diodes and Beads
Please take special note of the diode polarity
Optional Sockets, electrolytic capacitors.
You may skip sockets for your IC’s.
Take special not of the polarity of the electrolytic capacitors; negative goes to the white-outlined hole.
Use either ceramic, or film box caps; which ever you prefer.
Jacks and Pot
Place all 6 jacks and pot into the board but do not solder them yet.
Next, mount the PCB onto the faceplate and finger-tighten the nuts for all 6 jacks and pot. Once they are all straight, then you may solder them. Remove the faceplate and move on to (PCB 2/3).
Expand for Build Guide Part 2
Note, there are 6 resistors which we will not be populating. Board you receive will either show them blacked out or printed with DNP. Pictures will be updated shortly.
As before, add the jacks to the board but do no solder them in place. place the jacks through the faceplate and finger tighten nuts on each jack. Once the jacks are straight, then solder them in place.
Without removing the faceplate from (PCB 2/3), add (PCB 1/3) back onto the faceplate. You may choose to tighten all nuts in place at this point.
Locate your stackable headers and connect the single-row pin header to them. You will need one 6-pin stackable header and one 8-pin as well as 14-pins of normal header pins.
Insert the headers between boards and let them fall into place.
Turn the board back over and adjust the pin headers until they poke through both PCBs. Solder each pin in place.
Make sure all of your nuts are tightened and add the knob to the pot.
I center my knob, pointing vertically, but you may alternatively turn the pot completely Counter Clockwise and add the knob to point at the Letter “A”.
This short guide illustrates the locations to add 1N5711diodes so that all inputs are +/-12V tolerant.
Voltages will be clipped at +5v. You will need an additional six 1N5711 diodes.
Pins 3 and 5 of each LM6172 will require a diode. The anode (non-stripe side) of each diode connects to these pins, circled in pink below:
The Cathode of each diode will connect to a +5v source. Which ever +5v point that is closest will work.
Circled below in pink are all of the 5v locations.
The third image shows a diode connected to the nearest 5v source. I will add a photo of the actual process shortly.
And finally, here is a photo of the diodes installed to the bottom of the PCB.
Again, all pre-built orders for Shutter will come with these diodes installed.