So the Gieskes 3trinsRGB+1c to LZX Adapter PCB has been sold out and out of production for a while. What is the best way to go about making one? The page has what looks part of the pcb layout and of course there is a schematic. Is my only choice to learn how to layout a pcb based on the schematic and that picture or does someone have a gerber file they can send me so I can print a pcb? Or an extra adapter PCB I could buy from you?
It almost looks simple enough to be laid out on perfboard - could this be an option for a DIY kludge?
Or if enough people would like to purchase someone could get 5 to 10 pcbs made…
If there’s sufficient interest, I’d be up for laying this out with a few additions to make it a 4HP module (I have my 3trins racked). I was able to snag one of the expander PCBs back when they were available but added a few other simple mods to my 3trins to fill out a 4HP panel.
- Three gate inputs (using LM339/CD4066) tied to the RGB vertical / horizontal range latching buttons
EDIT: oops, forgot I also tied the 4th switch to the vertical adjustment button. Personally don’t use this much since you can’t control the speed or direction of the scrolling but you can get a Diver-ish H/V scrolling of external input video with this
- CV control over brightness
It would be nice to have them all on one proper PCB instead of on bits of stripboard. It would still require a little bit of soldering wires to points on the 3trins’ PCB.
That reminds me I need to try adding a S-Video output to mine at some point. The 3trins uses the same encoder IC as Cadet II (AD724) which just requires a 220uF cap and 75r resistor in series to both the Chroma and Luma pins which are broken out. I added this to my Cadet II and it works great.
I would definitely pick one or two up if someone made some pcbs !
I would also be interested in one.
I’m interested in one if anyone builds it!
Someone recently did this:
OSH Park is the most expensive way to do this though. $17.50 for a board that would cost under $1 elsewhere if someone ordered a few.
I might do a run. is an eurorack version preferred or is just a pcb fine?
I mean, a mountable PCB with an eurorack panel and some kind of cable to the 3trins. (MTA or so)
the original pcb has a few DNP resistors connected to +5v
what was the purpose of these? Why did they got cancelled I mean
I remember something about the output from 3trins being different for each device. Some output 5v, some 4.2v, etc.
Don’t know if the resistors had to do with that though
I remember not installing those resistors. my device is at my other home, 1100km away
my trins outputs 3.3v
Just checked mine, R1, 5, 6, 10, 11 and 15 are not placed
are the opamps OPA340?
I seem to recall that they are different opamps. maybe I am mistaken
If you rig up a Eurorack power connector, you could run the 3trins off of the +12V rail and then route the +/-12V rails to this expander so you could use LM6172s instead. I’ve run my 3trins off of a Eurorack supply for years and it’s been fine.
Basic idea. some space on the panel, so maybe something can be added.
like mentioned above.
the things @rempesm posted sound useful, but I don’t have my 3trins here, so I can’t test this now.
in about a month I’m back in NL, so then I do some tests.
the connections to the Trins can be MTA with this pinout header. maybe I move it a bit
I’m a fan of the mods I listed above but if this is wired up to the header by the AD724 on the 3trins, I wonder if it would make more sense to include the S-Video output and a second buffered composite output. Less clunky wiring, you get one cleaner output and an easy way to have one composite output for a preview monitor and save the one on the 3trins for easy feedback with a super short RCA cable.
If you’re using OPA340’s, I think your positive and negative power pins are swapped.