Those two drawings are electrically equivalent, but i think you may be trying to mount the switch the wrong way around. This would reverse the direction of the switch paddle,
Since the panel is unlabeled this is not all that problematic, but if you’re worried using coated wire of sufficient length would allow you to turn the switch around later.
you can look at A and B as an on/off connection.
The switch makes a connection with 1&2 or 2&3 + 4&5 or 5&6
So you can solder it as shown in the picture.
The build doc says this:
Mount the DPDT switch to the panel. Use resistor leads to solder PADS A, B, C, D.
The switch looks like this: six pins, in rows of three.
1 2 3
4 5 6
Solder pad A to ‘1’ , pad B to ‘2’ , pad C to ‘4’ , pad D to ‘5’.
So both drawings are correct.
But the switch does not have a direction, so you could also connect A to ‘3’ and B to ‘2’,
or A to ‘2’ and B to ‘3’
Thank you very much for your response. I used coated wire that I had on hand. That worked for me. Plus the coated wire is more bendy than the leads, which made it easier for me. Thanks!
Thank you for adding the drawings. I love it! And it is very helpful!
I was making this more complicated than I needed to (probably “as usual”). I have finished up the first TFG and am starting on the second one now.
Thank you for your response and the help!
Just sharing some photos of the final version (no jumper cables attached). Thanks again for the help!
So I just finished one of these and it’s great. It’s really helping me get some more interesting colour pallets with my cadets.
I had a bit of an issue though with the normalization. Sorry if I’m missing something, it’s quite likely.
I didn’t use jumpers, I just wired it for parallel. When I wired it as per instructions, though, I found that the normalization was not symmetrical. IE, PCB 1 normaled to PCB 2 and PCB 3, but PCB 2 only normaled to PCB 3 and PCB 3 didn’t normal at all.
I solved this by connecting pin 1 on PCB 3 to pin 2 on PCB 1 - ie connecting PCB 3 input tip to PCB 1 input sleeve.
So am I missing something or is there perhaps a step omitted from the normalization instructions?
the pcb’s are identical, so this should work as described in the manual.
Take a look at the schematics to understand this.
If you patch a jack into one of the inputs, you break the normalisation from that point onwards
I don’t fully understand your wiring explanation. can you descibe it using these terms:
pcb 1 (pin number) -> pcb 2 (pin number) -> pcb3 (pin number)
Also check the soldering on the wiring. use a multimeter to be sure (test the jacks pins for connection)
Version 2 pin ID:
pin 1 = tip of the input jack
pin 2 = switch of the input jack
pin 3 = tip of the output jack (in version 1 , this pin is GND)
Sure.
Instructions are:
PCB1 Pin 1 -> PCB2 Pin 2
PCB 2 Pin 1 -> PCB3 Pin 2.
What I added was
PCB3 Pin 1 -> PCB1 Pin 2
IE I connected PCB 3 to PCB 1, without which I was not getting symmetrical normalization.
Without that extra wire, PCB3 IN would not normal to PCB 1 or 2. PCB 2 would not normal to PCB1. PCB 1 would function as expected. IE they were normalizing in a line and not in a circle.
Which I think makes sense? Because without the connection between PCB3 and PCB1, when a jack is inserted in PCB2, the switch of PCB2 is no longer connected to tip. Right? But it’s the Switch on PCB2 that connects with Tip on PCB1. So the signal moves down to PCB3, but not up to PCB1.
I used a multimeter to figure this out. As far as I can tell the jacks are all working as normal.
The normalisation is setup in the manual as this:
PCB 1 is connected to PCB 2, PCB 2 is connected to PCB 3
so this is a ‘line’ . Patch the input into PCB 1 and the normalisation is spread over to PCB 2 and 3
PCB 1 is the first in line, so this would be the leftmost channel.
Your method makes that you can use any input .
I did not think up this scenario. maybe it is useful in some cases.
Ah okay, so it was working as intended. I guess I was just expecting ‘normalization’ to be symmetrical as in a multiple.
You’re right that it’s not really a useful difference. I guess I just like being able to use any input without worrying about which is the main one.
Well after waiting 4.5 months, I finally received my built TFG today. My builder never ordered knobs but had these laying around… I like them! Very different look but they definitely match the front panel.
wait… did the shipping take 4.5 months?
or your builder?
My builder! I gave him the kit the week I got, sometime in December I think
ok 
That panel looks wonderful. I’ll post it on my site.
can i just plug a composite signal in there? or do i need this Cadet Sync Generator?
Are there any alternatives to these Cadet Modules?
How can i get started to all that fun?
There’s nothing stopping you from plugging a composite signal in but you likely won’t get the results you’re looking for, e.g. you’ll probably get more glitchy results as you’ll be messing with the image and sync signals at the same time. Generally speaking, you need a genlockable sync generator and an encoder of some form to process composite signals within the LZX universe.
Check out this wonderful thread from @wednesdayayay :
Hey Martijn, I got a couple of these lovely TFGs prebuilt from Schneiders Laden. Question: what’s the safe voltage range? I want to use these for all sorts of things, not just LZX 1V video. Vector graphics, audio, etc. And I don’t want to destroy them with too much voltage.
Currently I’m driving my system with an Expert Sleepers ES-9, which is defaulted to 0-10 V.
Thanks!!
Standard Eurorack rails voltages, +/-12V.
Awesome, thanks for your help!
I think you mean the input voltages, not how to power your module, right?
