[ORDER] DAISY and ACCESS - Matrix Mixer and Utility


DAISY is my own spin on the classic matrix mixer but with the addition of daisy-chainable RGB inputs which may be configured as additive or subtractive post-matrix mixing via jumpers. Users may chain Multiple DAISY modules together to expand the number of matrices to their patch.
DAISY is used to selectively colorize and mix individual luma signals or RGB sets.
Chain and Matrix inputs cascade downward Red > Green > Blue. Red Matrix input is normalled to +1v.

ACCESS is an RGB Attenuverting and biasing utility. It makes a great addition at the end of any DAISY-chain series or on it’s own to dial in the range and offset of LFO’s or other video rate Control voltages.
Inputs may be attenuated and/or inverted from 0V/+1V to -1V/0V as well as biased up or down by 1V.

DAISY (DIY / built) - $37 / $217
ACCESS (DIY / built) - $25 / $158

See Other Available Modules

MULTA (DIY / built) - $16 / $87
MULTB (DIY / built) - $19 / $104
SHUTTER (DIY / built) - $32 / $163
VEIL (DIY / built) - $28 / $157
Passive Switch (DIY) - $10

  • DIY PCB/panel orders include circuit boards and faceplate only, users must source components listed in the BOM below.
  • Built modules are personally assembled, cleaned and tested. Each include a 6" 10-16 pin power ribbon cable.
  • Please respond below or DM me to place an order.

PCB/Panel set Orders:

Qty Name Status
2x A, 2x D, (+) dubpixel Shipped
1x A, 1x D meudiademorte Shipped
1x A, 2x D, (+) everyoneismyfriend Shipped
1x A, 1x D, (+) transistorcat Shipped

Complete Pre-Built Modules:

Qty Name Status
1x A, 2x D, (+) Bentoncbainbridge Shipped
2x A, 2x D jwsmithwick1 Shipped
1x A, 1x D skvl Messaged
1x A jsonpayload Shipped
2x A, (+) prakodr Shipped

BOM and Build Guide for DAISY (v2.1F):

Click for BOM
Qty Value Parts
1 TL431 reference IC5
1 4.99K resistor R1
1 1.5K resistor R2
1 0R resistor R58
1 10-Pin Box Header J9
2 1N4001 diode D1, D2
2 68R ferrite FB1, FB2
6 10u/25v capacitor C2, C3, C4, C5, C20, C21
7 LM6172 op amp IC1, IC2, IC3, IC4, IC6, IC7, IC8
9 PJ302M jacks CONN1 – CONN9
9 B10K right angle pot VR1, VR2, VR3, VR4, VR5, VR6, VR7, VR8, VR9
12 100K resistor R3, R4, R5, R7, R8, R9, R17, R19, R21, RS1, RS2, RS3
15 100n capacitor C1, C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19
16 499ohm resistor R10, R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R26, R27, R28, R29, R48, R49, R50, RF1, RF2, RF3
3 1K resistor R6, R25, R57
24 10K resistor R30, R31, R32, R33, R34, R35, R36, R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43, R44, R45, R46, R47, R51, R52, R53, R54, R55, R56
1 40-pin male pin header -
4 6-pin stackable header -
9 Befaco Pot Nuts -
9 Befaco Nuts (RGB) (3x Red, 3x Green, 3x Blue)
9 Thonk Micro Knobs T18 shaft (RGB) (3x Red, 3x Green, 3x Blue)
1 Pcb set -
1 10-16 power ribbon -


  • All resistors are 1/4Watt, 1% metal film resistors.
  • 0R resistor can be replaced with a clipped resistor leg.
  • Typical “Davies” knobs are too thick for comfort. Please use knobs linked above.
  • Potentiometers must be Linear-taper (B), 10Kohm, T18 shaft.
Click for Build Guide
Part 1: DAISY (PCB 1/4)

Step 0.
This is the build guide for DAISY v2.1F.
We will start with (PCB 1/4)

Step 1.
Begin by populating the 499ohm resistors. All 6 are labelled “499R” and pictured below.

Step 2.
This board has only a single 1Kohm resistor.

Step 3.
Next, populate all three resistors labelled 10K.

Step 4.
The last resistors on this PCB are 100Kohm. There are six to populate.
At this point, I will solder all of the resistors I have populated but you may do so one-by-one if you like.

Step 5.
Now that the resistors are finished, we may move on to the capacitors. Here you can see that I am using dipped MLCC-type with a lead spacing of 5.08mm.
There are four 100nF (0.1uF) caps.

Step 6.
Now we will add both 10uF electrolytic capacitors. These should be rated for at least 25V, but 35V and 50V may still have a lead spacing of 2.54mm. Pictured below are 50V rated caps.
We are using polarized electrolytic caps here, so be sure to line up the negative lead with the hole outlined in white and the positive lead marked with a “+”.

Step 7.
Now we may add the pots and jacks. There are three of each. As a reminder, we will need to use Linear taper, 10Kohm, right angle pots with a T18 shaft.
Place each component into it’s appropriate footprint and then install the loose board into your faceplate. Hand tighten a nut onto each part and make sure they are lined up straight before soldering.
Remove the faceplate.

Step 8.
I like to save the op amps for last. There are two LM6172’s on this PCB. Make sure the dot designating pin 1 faces to the top right of the PCB. Pin 1 on the board is also seen using a square-shaped via.
We can now move on to (PCB 2/4)

Part 2: DAISY (PCB 2/4)

Step 0.
Begin by locating (PCB 2/4) and place it in your vise.

Step 1.
This step populates six special resistors labelled RF1-RF3 and RS1-RS3.
As you may have read on (PCB 1/4), These resistors set the input gain for the “MATRIX” inputs to either 1x or 2x. I recommend 1x gain which means we will populate RF1-RF3 with 499R resistors and RS1-RS3 with 100Kohm resistors.
For 2x gain, all six will be 1Kohm resistors.

Pictured below I have populated the board for 1x gain as recommended.

Step 2.
Now we can populated the remaining 499ohm resistors. There are four more, all labelled 499R.

Step 3.
Next we will populate both 1K resistors located under and beside IC4.

Step 4.
The next resistors set our 1V reference which is normalled to the Red matrix input.
First a 1.5K resistor and then a single 4.99K resistor.

Step 5.
In this step, we populate three 10K resistors.

Step 6.
Nest we will populate the remaining three 100K resistors.

Step 7.
This step adds a 0 Ohm resistor labelled “0R.” If you do not have any 0 Ohm resistors, you may use a clipped-off leg from one of your other resistors. It acts merely as a jumper.
At this point, I soldered all of the resistors in place, but you may have done so while placing them.

Step 8.
For this step we can add two diodes and two ferrite beads. Diodes are polarized, so DIYers must line up the white stripe on each diode to the white stripe on the PCB.

Step 9.
Now that all of the flat passives are finished, we can place the decoupling caps. There are five 100nF (0.1uF) caps on this PCB.

Step 10.
Now populate two more 10uF electrolytic caps. Again, these are polarized and need to be placed correctly. The stripe on your cap identifies the negative lead which will be placed in the hole surrounded by white. The positive lead goes into the hole marked “+.”

Step 11.
It may be hard to see, but we will now add the power connector. I recommend you use a “keyed” IDC connector also known as a shrouded box-type connector. Line up the notch on your connector with the drawing’s notch. Here, the notch faces outward from the board.

Step 12.
Same as before, we will place each jack and pot into it’s appropriate footprint and then install the loose board into your faceplate. Hand tighten a nut onto each part and make sure they are lined up straight before soldering.
Remove the faceplate.

Step 13.
We can finally do the powered semiconductors, namely the TL431 and LM6172’s.
Follow the shape of the silkscreen and line up the flat side of your TL431.
Again, pin one of your LM6172’s can be identified by a dot in it’s plastic encapsulation. Place pin one into the square via for both LM6172’s.

That is all for (PCB 2/4). We can now move on to (PCB 3/4).

Part 3: DAISY (PCB 3/4)

Step 0.
Locate (PCB 3/4) and place t into your vise.

Step 1.
Populate the very last three 499R resistors.

Step 2.
All of the resistors from this point forward are 10K. There are eighteen.
I will solder all of the resistors at this point.

Step 3.
Here we will populate the six remaining 100nF caps.

Step 4.
Two final 10uF electrolytic caps. Line up the negative pins on the board that is outlined in white. Line up the positive pins with the holes marked “+.”

Step 5.
For this step, we need to clip three 2x2 male pin headers. We also need three jumpers, pictured below.
These will be soldered into the three locations labelled [-RED][+RED], [-GRN][+GRN] and [-BLU][+BLU].
Afterward, place your jumpers onto one of the configurations as pictured. Adding a jumper to [-RED] will configure the red CHAIN input to be subtracted from the red output after the matrix.
Adding a jumper to [+BLU] will configure the blue CHAIN input to be added to the blue output after the matrix.

Step 6.
Again, place three pots and three jacks into each f their respective footprints. Place the loose board into the faceplate, and hand tighten nuts to each of them. Once you are sure they are all straight, solder them in place and remove the faceplate.

Step 7.
Now you can solder the last three op amps. All three are LM6172’s and need to be placed into their sockets correctly. Line up pin 1 of each with the square via, indicating pin 1.

We can now move onto the final part of assembly. Locate (PCB 4/4) which is the faceplate.

Part 4: DAISY (PCB 4/4)

Step 1.
We can finally install all three PCBs into the faceplate. The column marked -PCB 1- is where you will place (PCB 1/4), the column marked -PCB 2- is where you will place (PCB 2/4) and the column marked -PCB 3- is where you will place (PCB 3/4).
Hand tighten a few nuts onto each board. The pot and bottom jack of each is a good choice.

Step 2.
Locate four stackable 6-pin headers and snip four 6-pin sections of male-pin headers.
Put them together a pictured below.

Step 3.
Take two of your stackable headers with the male pins header inserted and place the long-side into the center board. They will fall into the holes. Then turn the module over and they will fall toward the other side. Adjust the headers so that they fall into the other side and solder all 24 pins (that is six-pins times four sides).
Double check your work and make sure all of the pins are soldered.

Step 4.
This is the same as step 3, but we will place the two remaining headers into the two remaining locations. It is easiest to place the long sides of both headers into the center PCB. As pictured.
Then turn the module over and adjust the header so that the opposite pins fall into the correct holes.
Solder all 24 pins and double check that none were missed.

Step 5.
You’re finally finished soldering! At this point, you may take the faceplate off to clean all of your burned solder flux. The boards are connected and very rigid. You may easily disconnect all three boards from each other for this step.
Cleaning your boards allows for you to see any stray solder blobs or cold-solder joints.

Step 6.
At long last, we may finally reconnect all three boards together and install them into the faceplate.
With your Befaco bananut tool, install nine black pot-nuts onto all nine pots.
Install three red bananuts across the top row of jacks.
Install three green bananuts across the center row of jacks.
Install three blue bananuts across the bottom row of jacks.

Then locate three red-, three green- and three blue- micro knobs. Turn all 9 pots CCW so that the slot points toward the empty circle on the faceplate’s silkscreen. Take care when placing each knob so that the white dot lines up with the empty circle.
Place three red micro knobs onto the top row of pots.
Place three green micro knobs onto the center row of pots.
Place three blue micro knobs onto the bottom row of pots.

At this point (believe it or not) you are ready to hook up a power ribbon cable and rack the module to test. Plug in some luma sources and start colorizing!

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BOM and Build Guide for ACCESS (v1.3F):

Click for BOM
Qty Value Parts
1 10-Pin Box Header CONN7
1 TL072 op amp IC6
1 TL431 reference IC7
2 1N4001 diode D1, D2
2 68R ferrite FB1, FB2
2 4.99K resistor R49, RS1
4 10u/25v capacitor C2, C3, C4, C5
5 LM6172 op amp IC1, IC2, IC3, IC4, IC5
6 Befaco Nuts (RGB) (2x Red, 2x Green, 2x Blue)
6 Befaco Pot Nuts -
6 Thonk Micro Knobs T18 shaft (RGB) (2x Red, 2x Green, 2x Blue)
6 PJ302M jacks CONN1 – CONN6
6 100K resistor R1, R2, R3, R5, R7, R9
6 B10K right angle pot VR1, VR2, VR3, VR4, VR5, VR6
14 100n capacitor C1, C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18
15 499ohm resistor R4, R6, R8, R10, R11, R12, R14, R15, R16, R31, R33, R35, R46, R47, R48
16 1K resistor R13, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R32, R34, R36, R37, R38, R39, R52, R53, RF1
1 Pcb set -
1 10-16 power ribbon -


  • All resistors are 1/4Watt, 1% metal film resistors.
  • Typical “Davies” knobs are too thick for comfort. Please use knobs linked above.
  • Potentiometers must be Linear-taper (B), 10Kohm, T18 shaft.
Click for Build Guide
Part 1: ACCESS (PCB 1/3)

Step 0.
Locate the board labelled (PCB 1/3) from the bunch. This board also lists the BOM for the whole module.

Step 1.
Here we will place the first nine 499ohm resistors, all labelled 499R. I will personally place all resistors before soldering them all at once.

Step 2.
Now populate six 1K resistors.

Step 3.
And now you will populate six 100K resistors. It is at this point I will solder and clip all of the resistors.

Step 4.
Populate six 100nF (0.1uF) capacitors.

Step 5.
Two electrolytic caps now. Both are 10uF rated at 50V, although you can get away with 25V if you have them. Be sure to take care to place them correctly because they are polarized. You will find a stripe on your caps which identifies the negative lead.

Step 6.
Six pots and six jacks. Each pot is a right angle, 10Kohm, T18 shaft with a linear taper.

Step 7.
Finally, we will solder in three LM6172 op amps. Pin one of each chip is marked with a circle or divot. Make sure to place these pins in the square vias on the board. Afterward, we may move on to (PCB 2/3).

Part 2: ACCESS (PCB 2/3)

Step 0.
Locate (PCB 2/3).

Step 1.
Populate six 499R resistors.

Step 2.
Now populate eight 1K resistors. Ignore “RF1” and RS1" as we will come back the these below.

Step 3.
Next place the 4.99K resistor.

Step 4.
Now we will populate RS1 and RF1 which are printed on the board. These set the biasing reference.
Place a 1K resistor into RF1 and a 4.99K into RS1.

Step 5.
Now we can solder eight 100nF caps, both ferrite beads and both diodes.
The diodes are polarized, so we must line up the stripe on your diode with the stripe on your PCB.

Step 6.
Again, the next parts are polarized. Both 10uF caps must be lined up properly. Place the positive lead into the via marked with e “+.”

Step 7.
Now solder the power connector. This part has a notch which faces out from the board’s edge. It is also clearly marked in the board’s print.

Step 8.
Place your pots and jacks into the board but don’t solder them just yet. Carefully install the faceplate and hand tighten a nut onto each jack and pot. Now make sure each part is properly lined up and then solder each of the pots and jacks. Remove the faceplate again.

Step 9.
Now we can populate the active parts. Here we will solder the TL431 and TL072.

Step 10.
And finally, solder in both remaining LM6172’s.

Part 3: ACCESS (PCB 3/3)

Step 1.
For the final part of the build, install both PCBs into the faceplate. Only finger-tighten a few nuts since we will want to clean the PCBs once soldering is finished.
PCB 2 will go above PCB 1. Notice how the power connector is accessible.
Also, pull out one 6-pin stackable header and clip off a 6-pin section from your collection of male pin headers.

Step 2.
Put the stackable header and male pin header together. Carefully insert the long-side into PCB 1 and let it fall into place.
Next turn the module over and the pin header will fall to the other side. Adjust it’s placement so that both sides are through both PCBs as seen below:

Step 3.
Go ahead and solder all 12 pins; that is, 2 sides of the 6-pin header. Make sure you don’t miss any.
At this point, I will take the PCBs back out of the faceplate and clean them up with alcohol.
After you’ve done that and inspected your solder for any visible errors, we can finish this up.

Step 4.
At long last we can put the PCBs back into the faceplate and screw it all together.
Both top jacks will get a red befaco bananut.
Both middle jacks will get a green benenut.
And both bottom jacks will get a blue bananut.

All six pots will be tightened down with a black pot-nut, also from befaco.
All of these nuts will need to be fastened down with the special befaco-nut tool.

Lastly, we can stick the knobs on. We will be using six of Thonk’s micro-knobs.
Again: two reds on top, two green in the middle and two blue on the bottom pots.
Find a power ribbon cable and test it out! The knob positions shown below are for no attenuation and 0V bias. It is the neutral THRU setting.

I’m definitely going to get Daisy and Access pcb/panel sets one day, when I have more time for building again.

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Cool designs, Fox! :slight_smile:

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Build guide for Daisy added. It’s a long one!
Build guide for Access should be finished up tomorrow.

EDIT: Both Build guides are now complete. Post below with any questions you might have, or DM me directly.


Interesting that the boards are perpendicular to the panel on the Daisy. Any particular reason you went that direction instead of parallel? (Not criticizing – just curious.)


It’s a valid question. Perpendicular boards are just the way I am most comfortable designing and shares the most parts with the rest of my modules, i.e. jacks and pots.


I’d love to get one built Access module, please! How can I get my hands on one?

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No problem, I’ll PM you.

hey fox,

I’m super interested in ordering a few built modules, but I don’t really use this forum much. could you PM me or email to discuss a buy? thanks!


I’ve successfully built my two Daisies after starting soldering with zero DIY experience a week ago, so can vouch for how easy these builds are for newbies. My path through Fox’s modules to this point has been Quad Distro >> Quad inverter >>> Video Maths >> Priority Layer >> Daisy

@Fox - a question re: the jumpers on the back of Daisy. I’m think of replacing the jumpers on one of my Daisies with switches from Ladik’s switches module (P-060 Switches (DIY kit, 4HP) – ladik.eu). Is there any risk of me accidentally toasting the module if both the +ve and -ve pins are connected at the same time due to switches for both being set to on?

Thanks for these great modules.

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No, there is no risk. Jumping both will simultaneously add and subtract the CHAIN inputs, so they will just be cancelled out. I just noticed I never drew a diagram for using switch expanders so I’ll get that made soon.

I do have a 6x switch expander too, but haven’t really advertised it yet. It wouldn’t be worth shipping across the world by itself though.

Daisy is probably the most difficult to build because of the multiple PCBs, so you’re off to a good start!

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Perfect! Many thanks.

This should suffice for tonight. The right-most column of pins are both the common-pins. Connect one of these to the center pin of your switch.
The two remaining pins on your switch will connect to the two remaining pins on the board as shown below:

This is the same for all three colors.
Let me know if you have any problems.

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