I can confirm that the Malekko’s PC have in stock are the newest 2.2A. I bought two of them during the last sale, and my queries prompted them to update the picture on the website, but not the specs…
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Okay, the confusion continues. Hope this helps more clueless folks than just me. From Perfect Circuit today:
‘Thank you for reaching out to us. All the current stock that we have is hardware v. 1.3. We are expecting a batch of the updated units soon…’
This is confusing, though. Is version 1.3 the newer one with the higher rating? Should I order this one or wait?
V1.3 is the current version. I heard from DP yesterday that they are building more this week.
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Better than the response I got which was that the ‘firmware’ was 1.3 :), the units Perfect Circuit has in stock are the 1.3 version which I only implied with my initial response.
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Just got mine today! And, yes the 1.3 as you said @wiatrob. Along with my Escher Sketch, after repairs and a long weird journey in the hands of the postal service. Thanks so much for everyone’s help!
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So, I have installed 2 Malekko power busses in my new case. I am going to wire them with jumpers for cv and gate, from one buss to the other. Should I also install jumpers from zone to zone, within each buss because the zones are isolated from each other? …Is lzx selling the jumper cables any more? I may need more for a second case.
Like you, I have 2 Malekko PSUs. I linked them with a single bridge cable and everything works fine. PRs in 2 zones, no other links needed. Just make sure you connect the cable to the right pins!
Also installing 2x Malekko this weekend. I was able to fit all my bus-sync-only modules in one of the cases, so I can do RCA sync for the second case.
My understanding is that you don’t need to jumper across the zones; the zones’ CV and gate lines are connected.
This is not really a Malekko-specific question, but are people putting any protection or conditioning circuitry in between the panel power entry and the board’s spade connectors? I’m using this illuminated rocker switch and I’m not sure if a diode or filter caps would be helpful to prevent the switch LED return path from adding noise.
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I’m using the tta dual access module for power entry. This has switchs for both power bricks, so I can turn off the power to the modules in that entire cabinet when I’m not using them. I can also independantly power the top or the bottom PSUs for when I only need half the synth. However, the core module is in the lower half and many modules in the upper half require sync from it. So I tend to switch both on/off at the same time. I also have a master power switch for the whole rig in a power line conditioner.
Got the rig powered up and some basic test patches run. Malekko is happy, mods are happy, images are super-clean! Thanks for the help. Yes, I installed a switched hospital grade power entry with fuzes and filters…taking no chances…
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that sounds useful where did you find that?
Oh yeah I’d also like to hear more about hospital grade power entries!
I made two 1U entry tiles for the two halves of this MDLR case (with no side cutouts.) Internal 2.1mm barrel dongle for “dirty” power for MP/Liquid TV/etc. Huge improvement in noise level vs. my old case, so it’s fine for now, but I like the idea of a fused & filtered upgrade.
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Yeah, I know. BTW, that’s a wooden case. I’m talking about a steel 19" panel. Drilling itself is outside my scope. Friends and relatives can drill aluminium for me. My late father drilled steel for me. (Keyword being late.)
If/when I want a steel panel drilled in the future, I know professionals who can do it for me. However, there’s more to it than just that. I know this from experience. That’s why I can confidently say I know my limits. I’ve tested them enough.
There are other issues. but I doubt you’re going to understand any of them. We’re not trying to solve the same problems. Please stop offering me solutions that work for you and your problems. They simply won’t work for me. While I appreciate your efforts to help me, they don’t actually help me.
As I explained above, I have solutions. Lars understands the complexity of this problem domain better than any of us, and is addressing them in the 3rd generation modules. I received one of them today - Topogram - and I’m currently using it in a Mantis case. When I get the chance, I’d like to test it powered from an RP40. If that works as well as promised, I can make future case/power choices based on that. Worst case, I go with an all-Vessel solution. That’s not as bad as it might seem to you. I can live with it.
Hi @nerdware, I linked my post in this Malekko thread just for future reference, it wasn’t intended to be a further response to your post in the other thread. Just trying to curate our shared knowledge for everyone. Totally respect your sense of your capabilities, apologies if this came across otherwise!
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Ok, no problem.
BTW, has anyone else had difficulty ordering the 12V power bricks from Mouser? They tell me they require a VAT number due to CE restrictions on this product. This applies to both the bricks Malekko recommend. I asked Malekko for an alternative without this restriction but I never heard back from them.
This just another obstacle. I could just ignore the recommendation and use a random 12V brick with 8A of current. So, as I may very well not do any of this, I’m asking out of curiousity: has anyone encountered this obstacle? How did you work around it? Did you just use one of the 15V bricks?
Here’s another reason I love the Automata series. It looks like they’ll come with the right brick!
Otherwise, pfft. Same problem, same solution. Just some random 12V brick with enough current.
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WISH i had this when i was installing my Malekko Power!
thanks for making that though!
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Anyone able to help with how to wire in a dc jack to power memory palace and liquid tv with the dirty power that’s left over from the 8.34 brick. I followed the maleko instal with the easy clamps.
Hy. Is it possible to connect doepfer bus board to the Malekko power ?