Cadet/Castle components sources and substitutions

I’m building some more Cadet modules (for somebody else) and am wondering if I should use IC sockets.

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I never use IC sockets anymore.

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why not? interference?

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I originally read about possible interference so that was part of my reasoning. My other reasoning is that I had stopped using them for audio DIY years prior so I went with consistency on my builds. I see it as fewer parts to inventory, fewer parts to fiddle with and a reduced opportunity for errors on my end as well as for the end user. With SMD being so widespread and the lack of need to use sockets for SMD ICs, I figured it’s an old habit that doesn’t really need to continue for me. In my experience, I haven’t needed to replace ICs and in those cases it’s never been that hard to de-solder and replace.

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I go for socketless , I think. It feels weird though. shoes without socks
The ATMEL IC gets a socket. just in case…

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FYI I posted about component substitutions (BS170, 15uF MLCC) for the Cadet IV Ramps DIY module here: Cadet IV Ramps uncommon component substitutions

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About to order parts for the Scaler and my best option so far doesn’t have the 0R resistor, but it does have a 0.1R resistor, will it work regardless? I would order from Mouser, but I really don’t want to spend 20 euros on shipping (orders over 50 euros are free, and I’m barely over 10 euros…).

A 0R resistor is a piece of wire with no resistance, so you can cut the leg off a resistor or other component and use that instead :slight_smile: 0.1R will also be just fine.

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The trick is to order a number of modules worth of parts at once - so you get over the 50€ - actually works out at 60€ as that is pre VAT price

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Yeah, I’ve done that before, but I don’t currently have any other plans except for stuff I already have on my table.

Yeah been there… I’ve got a couple of modules awaiting side adjustable trimmers… and nothing else in the pipeline… so they can wait a bit longer until there’s something else I need…

Some of us in the city where I live get together occasionally to pool our orders and share the postage costs. But obviously that only works if you know others nearby!

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Yeah, a friend needed something so he got in on the order, but the shipping from that place was only 2,9 euro regardless. Sadly they were out of TL072’s, but a guy on forum was able to hook me up :D.

TL072 should be common enough that your local bricks and mortar store stock them.

The two stores in town have some resistor packs but that’s about it.

That’s crap, sorry :frowning_face:

Hi all -

I feel a bit silly asking this question but I am new to eurorack modules and building any sort of DIY video module. Just making sure i get my head around whats what, before i buy parts for cadet 1-3…

I have experience designing and fabricating boards for LED control and other applications - so not a parts noob, but here i am.

the futurlec parts - specifically:

IDCMH16
IDCMH14
HEADD6

seem like there could be an easy sub from mouser - so i ask: why specifically them?

also the thonk parts? - there is no reccomended US vendor (seems like BLMS could have the knobs??)?

just trying to optimize purchasing.

TIA

_JF

Hi @dubpixel. Your question seems perfectly reasonable to me. I don’t see any reason to be fussy with those connectors - it’s probably just coincidence that LZX bought a large batch of those parts from Futurelec at some point in the past so that’s what ended up listed in the BOMs. They are completely commonplace and any sensible substitute is likely to be just fine.

The Thonk pots and knobs are a bit different though. The trouble is that the manufacturers of those things offer the parts in thousands of customisable varieties, with minimum quantities well into the thousands and price points that are only good in the hundreds of thousands. So there are usually only a few variants that are stocked by any reseller company that low volume purchasers can choose from. Thonk happen to stock a range that are really convenient for DIY use and very reliable, and they are geared up to handle low volume customers, so it makes a lot of sense to use them for those parts. I guess LZX could have designed their DIY cadet boards for the varieties readily available at one of the big electronics resellers, but honestly I think the Thonk choice was a good one.

Personally, I use knobs from various places. That’s one thing you can happily vary to your heart’s content. Just make sure your choice matches the shaft of the pot, and be aware that some knobs with large skirts won’t fit the modules.

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you can also search for 9mm rightangled pots in other places, if you like to hunt for cheap.
they might not have the same quality as the Alpha pots Thonk uses,
but still good enough for your use.

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I’ve been compilling a mouser BOM for the full Castle series (1 of each module) and mouser indicates that some parts are reaching their end of life and some have already done so, the website claiming they are obsolete.


One such example is the Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 100Kohms 1% 100PPM. But in this case they indicate the corresponding substitute.

The same does not happen with the Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 0.1uF 50volts C0G +/-5% which is “Not recommended for new designs” and does not have a matching alternative.

The 1N4001 Rectifiers Vr/50V Io/1A T/R is also obsolete. No substitute is suggested by Mouser.


Could someone help me substitute these last two items? I understand they are somewhat simple components but I’m not that knowledgeable about this and would like to avoid wrong decisions.

There are other items nearing their end of life (as stated by mouser) but as they still had stock I did not write which. If I find the time I’ll revise the list and take note of all of these occurrences.

Thanks for your help!

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