Gen3 modules and Chromagnon offer the new option for direct bulk 12V DC power via DC power barrel – and skipping over EuroRack power supplies entirely. While LZX DC Distro is a viable option for those of you adapting existing EuroRack cases, if you are starting fresh and don’t mind a little shopping and DIY labor, there are some very affordable solutions using power supplies and power distribution units designed for CCTV camera equipment, LED lighting and broadcast peripherals. I love scenarios like this, where we can piggyback off a larger industry to provide more affordable solutions.
For example, here’s a 19" rack mount solution that would be capable of providing power to an enormous Gen3 system, including broadcast converters and lighting, that would cost a fraction of an equivalent EuroRack power supply. Just add some DC power pigtails, rackmounted EuroRack rails, a rack case, and you’d be good to go!
Note: I haven’t personally evaluated the below equipment, it’s just provided as an example for the purpose of discussion. Lets fill this thread with ideas and applications!
I can’t find any 12v dc rack mount power supplies in the UK, and mount anything on a 19" panel myself, but I can use anything that only requires a screwdriver. E.g. a 19" cable access slot panel and an external 12v dc brick. Really simple, but I can also power rack mounted fans with dust filters.
I love 19" racks. They’re available as light steel in flat packs. By light, I mean a 12U steel cabinet that weighs only 5.5 Kg. Rear panels add more weight. Subracks add more. E.g. an industrial Eurorack might weight over 2 Kg. That lot will still be much lighter than a typical wooden flightcase of a similar size. Plastic flightcases are of course much lighter, but still heavier than the steel 12U rack cabs I use. (I use both, for different gear.)
You can also stack cabinets. I like stacking 12U cabs on a 3U base cab for housing misc devices like power bricks and converters. Power distribution for the bricks goes behind the cabs, out of sight. I can also put the intracabinet sync cables back there. Ideal for all generations of LZX modules, but you’ll need clean PSUs for the older modules.
Best of all, no DIY is needed beyond using a couple of screwdrivers. I generally use 2 screwdrivers because modules and 19" racks use very different screw head sizes.
However, for entry level LZX using gen3, a pair of Eurorack rails can get you started. You can add the first cabinet later.
Definitely. You can get away with just a 12V DC brick and a 2.1mm DC barrel daisy chain or splitter cable to start off with in a barebones setup.
What is the allowable voltage range? Can you use a 19v laptop supply or anything like that?
While the Gen3 module released so far is 9-18VDC OK, I would stick with regulated 12V DC supplies to have no worries. This keeps you compatible with 12V fans, 12V LED strips, and other 12V peripherals (like broadcast converters, CCTV cameras, etc). It’s the standard voltage for these types of things. For example, the “12V input” on Memory Palace and TBC2 needs to stay 12VDC because they power a 12V fan.
You won’t have any trouble at all finding 12V DC laptop style power bricks and wall warts. Meanwell switchers and DIN rail mount power supplies are all options too.
Here’s an example (note any high amperage DC connector needs to be the 2.5mm barrel rather than 2.1mm barrel – so you’d need to use this with a splitter cable that has 2.5mm female barrel on one side and multiple 2.1mm male barrels on the other side for connecting to modules):
I agree, it’s easy! I just want to clarify I posted this is in the DIY section because LZX would not be able to offer customer support, warranties or instructions for other manufacturers’ equipment. LZX DC Distro is priced the way it is because that’s all part of the expectation. But for those of you who like to customize, tinker, and are okay with a bit of trial and research, there are other options (and that’s what I want to talk about in this thread.)
Oh, absolutely! I’m aware of the risks of buying a third party power brick. So many people get things like this wrong. So often its the same problems, like the power supply not providing enough current for the modules. I’ve experienced this one myself in a Mantis case. Fortunately for me, that’s the case that houses my Liquid TV module. Anyway, I’ll likely sell all the modules in that case, and the Mantis itself, to pay for the gen3 modules.
Hard to say, the reviews for the first 2 give plenty of hints of trouble, especially the first psu, the 10A one. The 2nd in the list seems OK but an Italian reviewer (they have it 2 starts from 5) wrote that it whistled or made a whining sound when on.
The 3rd one looked iffy with the multi output cable. On the other hand, finding those adapters for the 2nd one is always a pain.
3u 84hp
It will be my gen3 ‘skiff’ with just 12v input.
Right now is just bso channel, but it will have at some point tbc2, dsg3…. xyz3….joking. Just can’t remember any gen3 name
But that’s the idea, one case diy, one case expedition, one skiff orion y one more skiff for gen3.
@creatorlars, Would the above 12v brick be suitable to run three 3A distros with a 3 way splitter cable of some type? I am thinking that might be my best path. If I could get one brick and plug running 3 rows of 90hp i think I would be happy.
I don’t know that the splitter adapter would be rated for that amount of current, is the main concern I would have. It’s probably fine. I would personally get one of these and run the separate wall warts individually:
These cords do a good job of keeping wall-warts bundled together and are space efficient for power strip access. There are lots of benefits to a more distributed power arrangement – easier to debug if you have an electrical or installation issue to figure out, easier to replace a bad wall wart or keep a spare, etc. So I wouldn’t be super attached to the idea of powering everything off of a single source. At least not for performance concerns.
Yup, you look to be spot on… Most all 3 way splitters I can find are 5a trunk and 2a branch.
I think I’ll just rock three 3a Distros with a nice Isobar surge protector. Glad you pointed that out.
Thank you!
For example, how much should you put on a 3a Distro? Guessing you shouldn’t be pulling the full 3a?
Or more specifically, I have a TipTop Mantis with 3 1amp busses. Is 970ma too much for one bus. The other two would be around 850ma.
I should add this hopefully helpful tip: I use ModularGrid.net to calculate power; create one layout for the actual physical layout of the modules and then another based on how many power busses there are. I have one layout with two rows and another with three rows to determine power on the Mantis.
BTW DWO3 doesn’t have power specs on modular grid…
It’s hard to say what the effective headroom is – in the past I’ve recommended 20% to 10%. The harder you drive the load of a power supply, the more ripple it will produce. On a EuroRack module without Gen3 PSU, that ripple effects system performance and overall noise. On a Gen3 PSU input, there’s so much filtering going on that it may not effect performance either way.
My main concern about fully maxing out a Mantis case would be heat dissipation, if the front is sealed and power is at 95%. It’s normal and okay for video electronics to get pretty warm to the touch – but if it’s getting uncomfortably hot then you may want to allow for some venting so that some natural convection occurs.
So, your numbers seem within limits. But not within limits of “I’m positive you’ll be fine,” as I’m not the designer of the Mantis PSU. If it’s giving you issues, though, you might have to troubleshoot.
I just received the unit that was posted above, but the fan is way too loud. Back to Amazon it goes! It sounds like those devices that help to cover up noise to help you sleep, kind of like the ocean.
This is still a great idea, but the wrong unit.
If anyone is using something like this has an acceptable noise level, please let me know. Thanks!
That seems like a really nice way to go, always had an unsettling feeling when thinking of 2.1/2.5mm DC’s plugged in where I cant see or get to them. Cant beat screw terms for a sturdy connection!
