SHUTTER has been finalized and I can start shipping DIY PCB panels.
Complete Modules may be preordered and will be built together.
Description:
SHUTTER is a Video Rate, Triple Luma Switcher which allows users to switch Luma signals based on the brightness difference of the Switcher inputs.
Three sets of 2-to-1 multiplexer circuits are provided which allows users to switch two full color RGB-sets, or six different B/W images independently.
Multiple SHUTTER modules may be daisy-chained to switch between more than 2-RGB sets.
?? mA +12V
?? mA -12V
0 mA 5V
8HP wide
49.53 mm deep
CH A. & CH. B inputs: +5v/-12v tolerant
Thresh VC, Switch inputs: +12v/-12v tolerant
Prices:
DIY PCB Set: 32 USD
Built Module: 163 USD
US Shipping: 4 USD
Note: SHUTTER switches at video rates. For best results, it is required that users have a low noise power supply and avoid sub frame-rate signals on the “switcher” inputs. Examples were created using Malekko Power and Tiptop Studio Buses along with many LZX modules. Further patch notes and Build Guide can be found below.
PCB/Panel set Orders:
Please respond or PM me to place an order. @reverselandfill - 1x PCB set - Shipped @allthesixes666 - 2x PCB set - Shipped @omiindustriies - 1x PCB set - Shipped @everyoneismyfriend - 2x PCB set - Shipped
mrfang - 2x PCB set - Shipped
dr_how - 1x PCB set - Shipped
Dewb - 1x PCB set - Shipped
RoseColouredGlasses - 2x PCB set - Shipped
Midcitysteve - 1x Shutter - Shipped
Jesse - 2x PCB set - Shipped
Makaiya - 2x PCB set - PM’d
voidevaqion - 1x PCB set - PM’d
Mattzog - 1x PCB - Shipped
droningbrightnessav - 1x PCB - Shipped
sebiiksbcs - 1x PCB - Shipped
Built Module Orders: @TrashTeam - 1x Built Module - Ordered @Maytoast - 1x Built Module - Ordered
jwsmithwick1 - 2x Built Module - Ordered @DesertMuseum - 2x Built Module - Ordered @IoDionysus - 2x Built Module - Ordered @jsonpayload - 1x Built Module - PM’d
Dora - 1x Built Module - Ordered
brendanleespengler - 1x Built Module - PM’d
Video.pls - 1x Built Module - Ordered
All examples patched and recorded by @rempesm
Without him, this wouldn’t be possible.
This (above) is using the same still just processed two different ways into the RGB inputs of Ch. A & B. The Y from one still (the smeared to the right one) goes into the VC Threshold input. I’m using a modulated Prismatic Ray into the R Switch input (nothing plugged into G or B Switch). The modulation into Prismatic Ray is a mish mash of the Y from the second still, Diver, and an LFO.
Other Notes:
(1) IC1 must be CD4053 as 74HC4053 and others may not be compatible with the supply voltage.
(2) VR1 is a Linear 100kOhm pot, unlike the typical 10kOhm pot used in most DIY projects.
(3) D1 & D2 can be replaced with similar diodes, for example: 1N4002, 1N4004, 1N5189, etc.
(4) If you wish to use ribbon cable rather than stackable headers, you may. It is more difficult to prepare the wire than it is to use sleek headers.
All build photos present, text tutorial being added soon.
Expand for Build Guide Part 1
Start with (PCB1/3). Populate shortest parts first.
All values are listed on PCB for ease of locating.
Step 3:
Optional Sockets, electrolytic capacitors.
You may skip sockets for your IC’s.
Take special not of the polarity of the electrolytic capacitors; negative goes to the white-outlined hole.
Step 5:
Jacks and Pot
Place all 6 jacks and pot into the board but do not solder them yet.
Next, mount the PCB onto the faceplate and finger-tighten the nuts for all 6 jacks and pot. Once they are all straight, then you may solder them. Remove the faceplate and move on to (PCB 2/3).
Step 1:
Resistors.
Note, there are 6 resistors which we will not be populating. Board you receive will either show them blacked out or printed with DNP. Pictures will be updated shortly.
Step 4:
As before, add the jacks to the board but do no solder them in place. place the jacks through the faceplate and finger tighten nuts on each jack. Once the jacks are straight, then solder them in place.
Step 5:
Without removing the faceplate from (PCB 2/3), add (PCB 1/3) back onto the faceplate. You may choose to tighten all nuts in place at this point.
Locate your stackable headers and connect the single-row pin header to them. You will need one 6-pin stackable header and one 8-pin as well as 14-pins of normal header pins.
Step 6:
Make sure all of your nuts are tightened and add the knob to the pot.
I center my knob, pointing vertically, but you may alternatively turn the pot completely Counter Clockwise and add the knob to point at the Letter “A”.
This short guide illustrates the locations to add 1N5711diodes so that all inputs are +/-12V tolerant.
Voltages will be clipped at +5v. You will need an additional six 1N5711 diodes.
Pins 3 and 5 of each LM6172 will require a diode. The anode (non-stripe side) of each diode connects to these pins, circled in pink below:
The Cathode of each diode will connect to a +5v source. Which ever +5v point that is closest will work.
Circled below in pink are all of the 5v locations.
The first round will be built to order, but I will be working toward having more on hand.
I agree that international shipping is crap. Maybe I can find a retailer that would stock a few for me like VanTa mentioned.
Do you think they may be interested? I’ll try contacting them, thanks!
Raw Voltage (Austria) are selling LZX, Reverse Landfill and Syntonie Kits alongside built modules and those from afterlife laboratories and brownshoesonly
Exploding Shed (exploding-shed.com - Germany) may also be an option - no video modules yet, but they do seem to be expanding their range - so you never know! almost completely DIY
Thonk (thonk.co.uk - UK) - is also a good idea - especially given brexit - for all the UK residents - they also sell lzx, reverse landfill and syntonie video diy
I think that’s it for european dealers that sell video diy modules
There are a few that sell built modules, but most are ‘by request’ sales - ie we’ll order it for you
I’d also approach at least one dealer in the US - synthcube is the only 1 I know though
good luck!
I’ll probably end up with a full set (including some duplicates) of your modules when they are more easily available in europe, especially if pcb/panel sets are available
error instruments (errorinstruments.com - Netherlands) might also be interested - they sell some diy if I remember correctly & Paul follows me on instagram…
To switch between 3 RGB images, you would need to use 2 Shutters. Let’s say you have RGB images A, B, and C. Images A and B go into Shutter #1’s Ch. A and Ch. B inputs. Image C goes into Ch. A of Shutter #2 and the RGB output of Shutter #1 goes into Ch. B of Shutter #2. Just extrapolate from there for more inputs.
No rear connections are needed apart from power, it’s all achieved with front panel patching.
Yes, there is quite a bit of normalling going on in Shutter to make patching easier!
Ch. A’s inputs are normalled top>middle>bottom (or R>G>B). Same for Ch. B. Same for the Switch inputs but R is normalled to a 0.5V reference. The Thresh. VC input is normalled to a 1V reference which the Threshold pot attenuates. This is why you can switch between two sources with nothing patched into the Switch inputs or Thresh. VC–just wiggle the pot around 12 o’clock.
I’m sure @Fox will correct me if I goofed on anything here.
Totally right. I’ll just reiterate since I was already typing.
Great questions!
Daisy chaining modules is simply done via the front with patch cables.
First connect two RGB-luma-sets to Channel A and B on the first Shutter. Then connect the outputs of the first Shutter to Channel A of the second Shutter and a third RGB-Luma-set to Channel B of the second Shutter.
Yep! The faceplate shows a dotted line to illustrate the normal switched connections.
RGB Channels A, B and the switching inputs are cascaded R>G>B.
I will suggest for switching monochrome images, that you use just a single MUX. For Example: The first input of Channel A, Channel B and first Switch input. Using all three switching circuits for a single monochrome image wastes the second and third switching circuits since you can use either a cable splitter or mult to get a monochrome image into your mixer or encoder.
I will be detailing best-practice patch examples below the original post soon.
Welcome to the forums, Brian! I certainly will. I’ll PM you as soon as I get back from the grocery store.
