Hello, I’m trying to build the DIY VCO, but I’m having a hard time finding a similar switch that doesn’t come in a 100 units / pack. Does anyone have a tip or a link that could help?
If you mean the Castle VCO, I’ve used these two in four that I’ve built, Mouser pn 612-100-A1121 and 612-100-C1121.
Hey! I’m actualy looking for right angle ones, like these :
it’s to build the Cadet IX VCO.
I just found these, but I’m not sur if it’ll work :
They’re both on-on, and they’re the same length from the top of the switch to the pins (12.7mm)
If you wanted to punt on getting right angle / precisely the right length, you could always get straight lugs/pins, and then run resistor legs from the pcb to the switch lugs.
Save the clipped legs from the diodes and beads. Solder those to the legs of the switch. Works perfect and is a lot easier than tracking down the exact match in reasonable MOQ from the BOM. You’ll need to go through the datasheets to make sure the lever bat is the same on all switches if you want them all to match.
I’ve used these on all of my builds so far without any issues. The lever bats are all shorties which to me looks quite slick.
Thanks everybody! I’ll try a few things and get back to you if I still have some troubles! it’s nice to see a very-active forum!! Bright future incoming!
I used C&K 7201MD9ABE in my C9 VCO builds. Nice switches!
The picture on Mouser’s product page shows a SPDT solder lug part, ignore it and check the datasheet. The actual part has the long right angle pins and fits very well in the intended mounting position:
7,- euro a piece is a bit much though.
I used wires to connect my normal switches. those only cost me 0,20 ct on ebay
The following E-Switch parts are drop in replacements for the Mountain Switches specified in the Cadet BOMs. Note that like the original SPDT, the below SPDT has right angle legs too short to reach the PCB holes and you’ll need to use some extra wires such as resistor leg cutoffs to splice them in.
These parts are also quite a bit cheaper than the originals or many substitutes.
SPDT, right angle, non-threaded bushing, short toggle, part no. 100SP1T2B4M6QE, $3.32/1 piece
DPDT, right angle, non-threaded bushing, short toggle, part no. 100DP1T2B4M6QE, $4.21/1 piece
I don’t understand this. I didn’t have to splice anything.
Which part number did you use for the SPDT switch? 10TF230 or something else?
Hey, I ended up using this switch :
The only difference with the 10TF230, is that the box is a little bit smaller, so it has to be elevated a bit to be soldered! But still works fine!
Olll, that’s the same as the one I listed except yours has the longer toggle lever.
Hi…did anyone ever figure out where to buy these individual switches? as the moq is 100. need a couple for the vco pcbs im about to buy. couldnt find anything on mouser that was comparable enough right angle wise.
But i did find these, which should do the trick although they arent right angle. i think the thread width is the same if the hole on the vco panels are similar to the processors panel. strange the datasheet for the 10TF230 doesnt have a thread width or panel mounting drill dimensions.
You can just use a standard cheap “mini toggle switch” (as long as it’s panel mount - the kind with threads and a nut). Be sure to get the right poles and throws (the part you mentioned, 10TF230, is SPDT ON-ON). Then use some clipped resistor leads (or spare wire, though I find resistor leads easier) to connect the switch’s leads to the pcb. As long as the threads and nut on the switch lets you fasten the switch to the panel, there’s no need to have a switch that actually mounts to the pcb. I got my switches for the LZX diy modules off ebay/aliexpress for cheap. If you want to order from Mouser, see JunkRhythm’s post above in this thread, though those ones are like 3 or 4 (or 5?) times as expensive as the switches you can get from ebay/aliexpress.
See my post higher up in this thread. I list SPDT and DPDT parts, right angle, non-threaded bushing, easily available through Mouser. They fit right in. SPDT sits a little high on the board, but so does the original part.