Cadet/Castle components sources and substitutions

Thanks Lars for the temperature explanation :slight_smile:
I guess it’s the power supplies where all the heat is generated and given off.

Not always – voltage regulators at the inputs of modules and some of the higher current ICs can sometimes generate heat as well. Nothing in the system ever gets hot enough to need high temperature rated ICs though. If you’re wondering why I picked the original partnumber I did, it’s probably because that part had good stock levels and a better price when I originally selected parts for the BOM. Even though there are many possible variants and alternate parts, I always prefer to list a very specific part to avoid confusion. Learning when and how to substitute is part of the learning experience I hope building these DIY modules will provide!

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If anyone is looking for decent pricing on LT1256 ICs, check out Arrow Electronics. They have them for $7.33 and if you are a new customer, you’ll get 30% off your first order. Wait, it gets better. Free FedEx shipping!

So far I’ve placed two orders through them and shipping from The Netherlands to California was faster than from Mouser to Los Angeles.

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crossposting from the switch thread since this one is a sticky…

The following E-Switch parts are drop in replacements for the Mountain Switches specified in the Cadet BOMs. Note that like the original SPDT, the below SPDT has right angle legs too short to reach the PCB holes and you’ll need to use some extra wires such as resistor leg cutoffs to splice them in.

These parts are also quite a bit cheaper than the originals or many substitutes.

SPDT, right angle, non-threaded bushing, short toggle, part no. 100SP1T2B4M6QE, $3.32/1 piece
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/e-switch/100sp1t2b4m6qe/?qs=rR7wk9eDIwq%2bdlBXTZsQkg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

DPDT, right angle, non-threaded bushing, short toggle, part no. 100DP1T2B4M6QE, $4.21/1 piece
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/e-switch/100dp1t2b4m6qe/?qs=ah0KxwAvRCEz9RyQvbJXcw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

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as a tip: you can get free LT1256 / LT1251 samples from Linear Technologies.
I think the maximum is 2 of each. They also have other interesting IC’s, so get those too :slight_smile:

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just tried to get the LT1251 sample from Linear Technologies - you need a business email (which I don’t have ) to get them!!!

I noticed that when I got a sample. I felt a little funny telling them that I needed two LT1251’s for my job at a book store, but they sent them anyway!

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Don’t feel bad about taking them up on those free ICs. I used to get them and now we buy 1000-2000 at a time sometimes! Shapechanger alone has 8!

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Thanks JunkRhythm for posting the link to Arrow Electronics :smiley:

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No problem, it’s a good deal that needed to be shared. :sunglasses:

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Hi, Can anyone help me with options to substitute some of the components for the Cadet. I ordered all that was available on mouser a few months ago, and still there are missing some parts. Also I am not in the U.S so can’t use Analog Devices to get replacement for some parts…
So in need for:
10TF230
TL431BQLPR (couldn’t find replacements as suggested above)
MF1/4DCT52R1003F2
7201MD9ABE
Thank you!!!

I just built a multiplier, a processor, a scaler and a vco and 4 castle modules - these were my 3rd to 10th builds - scaler works for definite - still waiting on an ordered visual cortex to test the others - but all but one get power in the case and don’t blow anything else up which is a good start - I did screw one of the castles up which will be build 10 when a new pcb arrives from thonk - next of these will be the castle adc and dac and a sync gen (one of the parts for this is difficult to find*) - but anyway:

for the switches you’ll need to find one of the replacements above - I found some cheap ones on tadya - but not tried them yet - most of the replacements don’t drop in - you’ll have to solder bits of resistor wire to the legs of the switch and to the PCBs (really easy btw) - I got mouser part 611-7201-051 as a direct replacement for the 7201MD9ABE, but it is very expensive - also watch out for the length of throw of the switch - ie how long the lever is - i accidentally got a mixed bag - all the ones I found on tadya (took like 3 mins) had the same short levers so I’m going to go with those in future - you could also try thonk - they have some switches that might work but again will need bridging with wire

I got a TL4331A from mouser - part no 863-TL431AILPRAG just check the data sheet that they are the same

mouser offered a suggestion to replace the 1003 resistor with something else - this one i think - 71-CPF1100K00FKEE6 - just check that the datasheets match

I did get 1 part from arrow - free shipping and no minimum order - LT1251CN#PBF but quite expensive compared to getting samples if you can

if you are only missing a few parts don’t buy from mouser - they charge a lot for shipping unless you’re buying enough to qualify for free shipping (50€ here)

tadya are pretty cheap too, but they have a minimum order (5€) and charge shipping, but it was cheap and not horrifically slow

*R13 - 1623934-1- is only available from mouser on a roil of 40000 for 40€ - I found them at tadya for something like 2 cents each - minimum order 10 - so bought those

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hi 02w
I have all these in my box of videoparts.
(the toggle switches I have are the substitutes listed above. the normal types that you have to wire)

where are you located? I’m in NL (eu)
I can send you the missing parts

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WOW!! That would be amazing! Thank you!
But I’m in Tel Aviv :woman_facepalming::woman_facepalming::woman_facepalming:
How can we make it work and how can I pay you?
Cheers!

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Hi thank you! Good luck with the new castle! I also messed one up but hope these ones will work!
I will check all those replacements. that’s a great help!

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Can I ask what messed up?

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Hi Phil

Thanks for asking!!

mine was due to tiredness and inexperience - it was my fourth or fifth diy module ever - 2nd without a detailed build document - never soldered anything before - only learnt from youtube and dutch modular fest - which was semi-supervised - and everything else had worked fine first time

I had 2 packs of resistors (which looked almost identical) on the desk picked the wrong one up accidentally and stuffed and soldered them all in before noticing that they were the wrong ones + bad attempt at de-soldering with a cheap de-soldering pump and a later first attempt with braid => frustration and a slightly beat up board with some scorch marks and scratches

at the end of the day i learnt the obvious:

double check what you are placing where, and check again before you actually
solder 

don't build after midnight

it’ll have cost me less than 20€ - so annoying but not the end of the world - ordering a new pcb from thonk today to take advantage of the free shipping

I’ve built a further 4 or 5 modules since and they have all at least powered up ok - will be testing imminently once I’ve got my head fully round my new Visual Cortex - which I’m having a few issues syncing - but again most of that was late at night

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Definitely got to the same conclusion :wink: the Cadet is my first soldering project ever…
Was super late at night, over enthusiastic I placed the wrong part, and when pumped it out, lifted a pad … nothing to write home about but well yeah - work slow :slight_smile:

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Hi,
Are MLCC capacitors absolutely necessary ? Or can I use ceramic disc ones ?
Sorry if that’s a stupid question but I couldn’t find a simple answer and I’m relatively new to DIY.
Thanks !

I should think as long as the rest of the specs are the same - ie capacitance, tolerance, size, etc then you should be ok

just check the data sheets to confirm