Cadet/Castle components sources and substitutions

No problem, it’s a good deal that needed to be shared. :sunglasses:

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Hi, Can anyone help me with options to substitute some of the components for the Cadet. I ordered all that was available on mouser a few months ago, and still there are missing some parts. Also I am not in the U.S so can’t use Analog Devices to get replacement for some parts…
So in need for:
10TF230
TL431BQLPR (couldn’t find replacements as suggested above)
MF1/4DCT52R1003F2
7201MD9ABE
Thank you!!!

I just built a multiplier, a processor, a scaler and a vco and 4 castle modules - these were my 3rd to 10th builds - scaler works for definite - still waiting on an ordered visual cortex to test the others - but all but one get power in the case and don’t blow anything else up which is a good start - I did screw one of the castles up which will be build 10 when a new pcb arrives from thonk - next of these will be the castle adc and dac and a sync gen (one of the parts for this is difficult to find*) - but anyway:

for the switches you’ll need to find one of the replacements above - I found some cheap ones on tadya - but not tried them yet - most of the replacements don’t drop in - you’ll have to solder bits of resistor wire to the legs of the switch and to the PCBs (really easy btw) - I got mouser part 611-7201-051 as a direct replacement for the 7201MD9ABE, but it is very expensive - also watch out for the length of throw of the switch - ie how long the lever is - i accidentally got a mixed bag - all the ones I found on tadya (took like 3 mins) had the same short levers so I’m going to go with those in future - you could also try thonk - they have some switches that might work but again will need bridging with wire

I got a TL4331A from mouser - part no 863-TL431AILPRAG just check the data sheet that they are the same

mouser offered a suggestion to replace the 1003 resistor with something else - this one i think - 71-CPF1100K00FKEE6 - just check that the datasheets match

I did get 1 part from arrow - free shipping and no minimum order - LT1251CN#PBF but quite expensive compared to getting samples if you can

if you are only missing a few parts don’t buy from mouser - they charge a lot for shipping unless you’re buying enough to qualify for free shipping (50€ here)

tadya are pretty cheap too, but they have a minimum order (5€) and charge shipping, but it was cheap and not horrifically slow

*R13 - 1623934-1- is only available from mouser on a roil of 40000 for 40€ - I found them at tadya for something like 2 cents each - minimum order 10 - so bought those

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hi 02w
I have all these in my box of videoparts.
(the toggle switches I have are the substitutes listed above. the normal types that you have to wire)

where are you located? I’m in NL (eu)
I can send you the missing parts

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WOW!! That would be amazing! Thank you!
But I’m in Tel Aviv :woman_facepalming::woman_facepalming::woman_facepalming:
How can we make it work and how can I pay you?
Cheers!

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Hi thank you! Good luck with the new castle! I also messed one up but hope these ones will work!
I will check all those replacements. that’s a great help!

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Can I ask what messed up?

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Hi Phil

Thanks for asking!!

mine was due to tiredness and inexperience - it was my fourth or fifth diy module ever - 2nd without a detailed build document - never soldered anything before - only learnt from youtube and dutch modular fest - which was semi-supervised - and everything else had worked fine first time

I had 2 packs of resistors (which looked almost identical) on the desk picked the wrong one up accidentally and stuffed and soldered them all in before noticing that they were the wrong ones + bad attempt at de-soldering with a cheap de-soldering pump and a later first attempt with braid => frustration and a slightly beat up board with some scorch marks and scratches

at the end of the day i learnt the obvious:

double check what you are placing where, and check again before you actually
solder 

don't build after midnight

it’ll have cost me less than 20€ - so annoying but not the end of the world - ordering a new pcb from thonk today to take advantage of the free shipping

I’ve built a further 4 or 5 modules since and they have all at least powered up ok - will be testing imminently once I’ve got my head fully round my new Visual Cortex - which I’m having a few issues syncing - but again most of that was late at night

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Definitely got to the same conclusion :wink: the Cadet is my first soldering project ever…
Was super late at night, over enthusiastic I placed the wrong part, and when pumped it out, lifted a pad … nothing to write home about but well yeah - work slow :slight_smile:

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Hi,
Are MLCC capacitors absolutely necessary ? Or can I use ceramic disc ones ?
Sorry if that’s a stupid question but I couldn’t find a simple answer and I’m relatively new to DIY.
Thanks !

I should think as long as the rest of the specs are the same - ie capacitance, tolerance, size, etc then you should be ok

just check the data sheets to confirm

Is sourcing some LM6172IN Op Amps on Ebay an especially bad idea?

They’re back-ordered at Mouser anyway right now, and about 1/3 as much from China.

In stock at https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM6172IN%2FNOPB/LM6172IN%2FNOPB-ND/364218 without the worries.

I recently bought a testbatch on ebay - they worked fine.
yesterday I ordered more from them. hopefully they also work :slight_smile:

seller: (deleted link to avoid sadness) for reference: ‘allenlu1995’

update: I got some fakes with this seller. so avoid!

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Re: disc caps — I’m no expert by any means, but I’ve heard that ceramic discs can be microphonic at high frequencies. I always try to implement best practice with video stuff because of all the weird voodoo like that. It’s one of those things that’s probably fine, but I like to eliminate any possibility of letting the circuit act weird, however infinitesimal.

I should elaborate — a significant part of this has to do with troubleshooting, so if something’s gone wonky, I don’t have to think, “oh is it those goddamned capacitors I spent 1¢ on instead of 2¢ ?!” and then I can just simply focus on plugging the power connector in all the way, or whatever was the actual problem.

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Following up on this… I ended up trying some of the Chinese LM6172INs off of Ebay. And, as reverselandfill mentioned on another thread, there is some blurring (presumably because they aren’t actually as fast as they need to be?). Not recommended.

Figured this info could be helpful here if someone is searching in the future. It’s a shame because they are 1/3 the cost.

see here

I also filed a refund with that certain seller. so should you!
update: I just got the full amount in return via paypal.

Same. And (not surprisingly) no request to actually return them.

Going to just enjoy some glitchy/smudgy ICs until the bulk order of the real deal happens.